Disclaimer: I acknowledge that this is not an official Department of State publication, and that the views and information presented are my own and do not represent the Fulbright U.S. Student Program or the Department of State or the Fulbright Foundation in Greece.

Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Day 3: The View from the Train…

Day: 3
Countries: 2               Cities: 2
Budapest, Hungary à Vienna, Austria
The View from the Train…

Tuesday 22 December 2015

It's fun to people watch. On the train, on the metro, in a restaurant, on a sidewalk…

that little old lady with the salon roller curl ‘do still going strong, her round glasses perched on her nose and her wrinkly thin hands clutching tight, one to a Christmas-themed shopping bag, the other around her coat’s collar…

that older couple sitting together, close but not touching, not needing to after all these years, the joy and the struggles etched on their worn faces with frowns that don't speak unhappiness necessarily…

that young couple sitting so close they're practically on top of each other—ahh, young love: do you sigh because it's sweet or out of exasperation because it won't last? I choose the former, because maybe, just maybe, it will…

that very tall man standing by the door, his head with headphones in the ears just missing the ceiling—how often does he have to duck simply to enter a room?

that woman sporting the pink scarf with red-rimmed eyes and a mouth that keeps twitching, puckering up in a futile effort to hold back tears—of loss, grief, or heartbreak?  

that family around the table—the mom brings back food for her clan—a different family a block away does the same thing…

those girls over there look like us—wide-eyed wonder, backpacks gripped tight, ready for the trip of a lifetime…

A thousand little snapshots, Portraits of life. The best art gallery in the world—free to enter if you only open your eyes to what's around you once in awhile. 

And now, multiply the wondering awe of your gaze as you look around you, for there's even more to see at Christmas—when the wondering goes beyond simply what's in the bag that man/woman/child is holding to “who is it for?” and “how are they connected to the person holding the bag right now?” and “will they like it?” ...and then that makes you think about the people holding a bag with something for you—no you're not thinking about what's in the bag so much as the person holding it. And you think about the people to whom you'll give the present in the bag you're holding and the smile that will light their face when they see it…

~


I'm on a train right now. Now no longer in Budapest. Now officially done with the first leg, the first tenth of our trip.  And, indeed, we are off to a great start. 

It doesn't feel like Christmas is three days away though. It hasn't felt like the Christmas season at all this past month. But the Christmas music drifting through the speakers of every store, restaurant, and taxi cab, and the little old ladies touting H&M bags that must hold something taken from their grandchild’s Christmas list, and the Christmas lights lighting the night sky, and the fact that we aren't in school at 1:58 pm on a Tuesday…all these signs tell me it must truly be Christmas approaching. 

I'm on a train right now. And about an hour from when I first started. And I want to write, follow these words as far as they might lead. But the gentle rocking of the train adds to the weight of my eyelids and I find myself wanting to just give into the pleasantness that is closing one’s eyes in the middle of the day. It's not often you have the occasion or chance or time to do so. To just give in and lean your head against the cool glass windrow, turn your face a little farther into your coat to hide any drool that may or may not escape J, to close your eyes—and not even necessarily to sleep, but to just rest and be in that place where your eyes are closed and the train is moving and you could be asleep or not…possibilities… 

~

So have I finished being profound? Or is there more to be written to complete the thought started before? At either rate, leave it at what it was and suffice to say it's Christmas soon whether I feel it or not. And maybe it's just our change in circumstances and geography and climate and company. Or maybe it's my mind trying to trick itself (maybe I won't miss home and Christmas so much and I'll be able to more completely enjoy this holiday trip if it doesn't feel like the holidays; if it doesn't feel like Christmas then maybe I won't miss it. Right?)…

But that grandmother clutching the shopping bag. The gift in my bag that would be perfect for you. The line of people waiting at the airport for their loved ones to land. A stamp that missed you by that much. Their plane lands at home today... It is what it is.  It's Christmas. It's the adventure of a lifetime. It's different… 

Anyway. What have we done today? We are on a train, that much has been established. But where did we start?

Wake up, pack, get ready. Go to the traditional bath located just across the White Bridge. Soak in the hot, natural waters that sit underneath the Buda side. Walk outside again to see the fog has cleared enough to give you a glimpse of blue, feel the warmth of a sun that was hiding too long, allow it to introduce you face to face with the city you're about to say farewell to. It's beautiful.

Stroll through the Christmas market one last time. Share some potato pancake fried in oily goodness and topped with flavorful chicken and peppers.  Mmm,  But you know you wouldn't fare well on this Hungarian fare for long, tasty though it might be. Hurriedly browse the stands one last time and find a souvenir or two that might suit—the gifts in the bag, mentioned before, which represent the smiles of the ones you love…

Back to the hostel to grab our stuff and check out. Down to the metro (quick exchange your leftover money on the way—a reminder to budget better though you didn't lose too, too much..). Catch the metro to the train station. Find a snack before you board. Board. Figure out seats. Sit back and enjoy the ride. Try to type to remember the day. Fall asleep whilst trying to be profound. Enjoy the scenery outside your window if your tired eyes will let you. J 

Train pulled into the Vienna station about 20 past 4 and already the sun was setting. But it was warmer. And today is the first day of winter, the winter solstice, so that means the days will start getting longer again.  Which is pretty darn exciting.  We made our way through the station and navigated the metros then walked the short bit to our the Airbnb where we were staying.

We researched a little and then went in search of pork knuckle at the place our friends had recommended. Melker Stiftskeller. This neat underground old restaurant with exposed high brick ceilings and pretty good food. Apparently it started as just a house and then some guy bought it and then added a winery and a steeple and during the war it doubled as a hospital… Anyway, that’s all to say that dinner was pretty good.

Then we walked and wondered toward this beautiful steeple we could see in the distance. We found the Christkindl market there which was awesome! 10 times better than the ones in Budapest. More lights, more shops. Just cooler. After wandering there for a while, we wandered back toward our place and stumbled upon am "American bar" called East Coast with 1920’s prohibition/temperance posters out front. It was neat. The people were really nice. Talked briefly with a couple from Colorado and she teaches here now in an International school.

Now back for the night. Ready for bed. But talking to people from home and catching up here takes some time. And now it's nearly midnight which means it’s really time for bed.

But that was our view from the train today….

~

And here are some more views from today:

Foggy morning



But then the fog clears







<3 I wish I had something profound enough to say to capture the essence of this picture but there just aren't words adequate enough...


...for this one either...


~

First views of Vienna



Views of Christmas Market and City Hall











A good day :)




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