Disclaimer: I acknowledge that this is not an official Department of State publication, and that the views and information presented are my own and do not represent the Fulbright U.S. Student Program or the Department of State or the Fulbright Foundation in Greece.

Sunday, January 24, 2016

Halfway there...

Day: 10
Countries: 3               Cities: 6
Nuremberg, Germany à Berlin, Germany
Halfway there...

Tuesday 29 December 2015

We are officially to the halfway mark of our trip (or basically there at least). Our tenth of twenty-one days of travel. And almost literally between the first five cities and the last five cities. In a way, this train is taking us more than just from Nuremberg to Berlin. It's taking us from the first half of our trip to the second half. And there's almost a different tone or atmosphere of sorts surrounding each half. Like the first was so full of newness and excitement and perhaps some unsurety. Maybe even a tad more energy. Plus we had the added nuance of looking forward to Christmas and the magic of Christmas markets and lights and displays, which brought both joy and a tinge of hmmm... I am at once relieved to be through with Christmas and a touch sad. Because now I'm ready for it more so than before. Now I'm ready for it to feel like Christmas and everyone is taking down their festive decorations. Oh well.

In a way too, I think the first half of our trip was comprised of places that shared many similarities—from cuisine to architecture. And the transition from one to the other was not so abrupt, but rather subtle, smooth. And it was marked by many a quaint place. Having Germany and Austria for the last week or so, especially cuisine wise, has been another aspect in which I think we are ready for a change. And though we will still be in Germany for almost the rest of the week, perhaps there will be a bit more variety in Berlin. And then it's time for something completely different with Amsterdam, Dublin, and Belgium. But I'm excited.

Finally, one last marked difference between the two halves (which might actually end up being more like two or three more marked differences that I'll try now to pass off as one): we've learned a lot about traveling in the last week or so. On the last and also on today's train ride, we navigated to and boarded and sat down on the train without any problems whatsoever. Making it around the cities, to and from our hotels, figuring out what we want to do and making our ways around the cities and seeing everything there is to see and treating ourselves and experiencing everything...we are getting better at all of it. This marks our half of travel as more seasoned travelers.

We are also becoming exceptional walkers, racking up steps and miles like nobody's business. And while we fall asleep the moment our heads touch the insubstantial pillow, and though we can start to feel it now and then in our tired muscles and feet, it really hasn't been so bad. We aren't utterly exhausted like I worried we might be. And I hope that trend at least carries over into the next half of our trip. And it's also a little bit sad, because every day now that we travel, while we are traveling geographically farther away from Athens still, it's almost like we are traveling now to Athens—as each day brings us closer to being home. That doesn't have to be sad necessarily I guess. Just means we have to be extra sure to make sure we take advantage of each moment and enjoy this trip and all it has to offer while we are here. Seize each day. Carpe diem, right?

Okay, one last thing. We have been fortunate to have had really pretty great weather on our trip so far. With the exception of Budapest it has been sunny and not too chilly. Not nearly as cold as we were anticipating and (mentally/clothingly) bracing ourselves for at least. As I look out the window, roofs and fields alike are frosted over like the frosted panes of the department stores not too long ago. Only this frost didn't come from an aerosol can. It came from cold. I hope we don't run into awful/cold weather but can continue to ride our good weather luck a bit longer.

But anyway. That's about it for now. A midway report of sorts. A look back and also a look forward. As we make our way from one half to another. From Nuremberg to Berlin. With music dancing in my ears, breakfast dancing with residual hunger in my stomach, and the sparkling carbonation bubbles dancing in my esophagus as I drink the mineral water I didn't realize wasn't still water when I bought it. Here we go. The foggy frosted landscape passes by as we travel backwards but forwards onto our next destination. We still have ten(and a half) days. So this isn't a sad post by any means. There's still so much to see and do and experience.

Open eyes to what is around you. Keep your ears open and listen to what is said (in whatever language) and what isn't, feel the energy coursing through each new place coursing through you, smell the air (fresh or smoky or tangy), taste new dishes and delicacies, treat yourself. Experience. There's life to be lived. Adventure awaits. And η ζοη είναι ωραία. J (Life is beautiful)

~

A pretty good day. Berlin is huge. Not quite as magical but still nice. We pulled up to the station about 2:30 and then proceeded to try and find the rail office to make reservations for Friday so we will have one less thing to worry about that morning. We will need to get an early start after a late night and it's better to just have all our ducks in a row. The worker who helped us seemed surprised that we lived in Greece and that it could still possibly be nice to live in Greece right now—“I guess if you're not poor" he said rather condescendingly. Anyway.

We stepped out of the train station into the startling chill of the biting and whipping wind welcoming us to Germany. It's colder here than we've been all trip and it looks like it'll stay chilly the rest of our time here. Oh well. We made it via bus to our hotel and checked in. It's decent enough but the beds slope back downwards so all your blood rushes to your head, the pillows are so thin, and right now the internet doesn't work.  Take a second.  Step back.  Perspective.  Breathe it in and let it out. The train ride was nice. It's nice to be warm and laying down right now. The door is locked. And we have two full days left here.

After we settled in we layered back up extra and then headed back out into the chill. We walked and found the mall, sharing some French fries before shopping a bit. But didn’t really find anything. And if it's going to be this cold, may not end up wanting anything new anyway (unless it’s a new parka!).  After the mall we set out and walked a bunch to get to an area we hoped would have food. The restaurant we were walking toward ended up being closed, but we settled for a Mexican place that wasn't too bad. And then after we were craving dessert and stumbled upon this Italian restaurant that we should have just eaten dinner at. But oh well. It worked out because we had dessert there and it was delicious! And we just sat and chatted for a while and then made our way back to the hotel via cab and then there's been all this hassle with the Internet. But now I'm all caught up for the day and I think it's time to go to sleep so we can start the next day soon enough and hopefully better. Night! 

~



May the Force be with you…

Day: 9
Countries: 3               Cities: 5
Munich, Germany à Nuremberg, Germany
May the Force be with you…

Monday 28 December 2015

Music playing through the headphones stuck in my ears, right and left; cute, little, noisy kids just up ahead—kitty corner and just behind—surround sound coughing and babbling, a cacophony of cuteness; passing countryside out the window, picturesque of course—pass through a tunnel out into the fog…another, out into sunny, rolling hills dotted with bare trees and the half-timber houses that have marked the landscape and the change from one region to another.

Just under an hour spent traveling so far. Not too much longer left. Another full day ahead. New sights to see, new food to eat, new experiences to be had. Life to be lived. A day to be seized. Adventure awaits… 

~

Adventure was had. 30,000+ steps/13.5 miles of it. Uf-da was it a long day. But a good one.  We arrived in Nuremberg around 10:30, then navigated our way two stops via metro, then tried to decipher and navigate the directions to the hotel which we managed to get to with the help of some well placed blue signs. We dropped off our stuff and then headed to the main area in search of a cafe. We looked around and around, down cobblestone streets (and up cobblestone streets, as well).

On the way, we ran into a camel and this kind of weird marriage fountain. But the streets are so picturesque with their colorful, shuttered houses with tiled roofs. And almost every street and sidewalk we walked on today was cobblestone. Which looks pretty, but we have to remember to look at our feet more. We've gotten comfortable thinking we don't have to spend so much time looking down and ended up tripping a few times.

But it's so hard to remember to look at your feet because Nuremberg is so quaint and beautiful it just begs you to keep your head up and your eyes open scanning your surroundings trying to take it all in. It's just one of those places where you get there and immediately love it, like there's some sense you get that it's a nice place. I got it in Budapest and I have it here. And in Salzburg a little and in Vienna a time or two. It's that wide eyed wonder and oh my gosh look at that and that and that and that.!.!....!!!.... You know?

Gracie and I did a ranking of the cities so far: Nuremberg and Budapest are tied for first, although Budapest may have taken the cake if we'd had better weather. Both had that awe and immediate sense of “wow this is quite lovely”. Munich brings up the rear, but it's rating may be tainted/affected slightly by our timing and the fact that so many places were closed. And then in the middle we have Salzburg and Vienna with Salzburg taking a slight edge, but again perhaps only because it's where we spent Christmas and that lends a certain amount of extra specialness to it. But it does have its own merited charm and quaintness. I think I find I'm drawn to the quaint and more charming, picturesque places. But anyway. That’s our list so far.  To be continued/added to/revised as needed. ..

We walked and eventually found a nice, busy restaurant. And one with a breakfast menu and some variety besides the heavy fare we'd been having. Cafe and Bar Celona. A touch of Spanish flare to it. We both ordered a coffee and then the solo breakfast which is basically a mini buffet for one.  It was so good and what we needed and had been looking for. I think the best breakfast I've had since coming to Greece.

We kept walking after our breakfast/lunch break and headed toward where the Christmas Market should have been but where it was now being taken down because it's no longer running. Too bad though. It's supposed to be the best around. Oh well. Just another reason to come back J.

Today we did a lot of walking with a lot of little overlapping loops that let us spiral through the city. So t was like every corner we turned looked familiar and new all at once. We saw the castle with a gorgeous overlook of the city. We saw Druers house. And the lane with all the half-timbered houses, which is so cute and quaint and charming. And we saw the Beautiful Fountain under construction so we couldn't actually really see it. And we saw some really neat churches. And we saw some candy pigs. Like everywhere. Apparently it’s for good luck for the New Year.  And we saw the hangman’s house and bridge. And the oldest house in the city which used to house lepers and now houses university students. And we saw the little island and walked to it and then away from it. And the chain bridge. And the elite shopping street. And the not-so-elite shopping street.

Late afternoon we paused to gather our bearings and start to make a game plan for the rest of the night. We saw a movie theater nearby on the Tripomatic app (which is awesome by the way—go download it now so you have it for your next big trip!); so we headed that way just to see what was playing. When we got there we found out that all the movies were only being played in German which was actually rather disappointing. We had kinda gotten rather taken with the idea of going to a movie that night. But we didn't give up. We looked up the other movie theaters in Nuremberg and then tracked down the closest ones to investigate further. Only to find that the only English movie they are playing this week is Star Wars. But never fear lest you think we went through all this work only to not see a movie. Because we both decided we were okay with seeing Star Wars and decided to come back for the later showing.

In the meantime, we went in search of dinner. Our plan was to try and seek out one of the Michelin star rated restaurants but after hunting these out on the map we found them to be closed for the holiday break. Alas. Probably better for our wallets anyway. Our trek to the last one brought us through the Human Rights Path which leads you beside a lane of pillars all inscribed with different articles of the Declaration of Human Rights inscribed in different languages. We got really excited when we recognized the Greek inscription and could sound it out and recognize a solid three words. Our Greek teacher would be so proud (or maybe she'd be horrified and wonder what we've even learned at all in our first semester of classes...).  Anyway.

Our search for food continues almost quite literally all over town. Up and down this street and that. Italian and German. Full up and not necessarily appetizing. We ultimately decided to just stop into an Irish pub to rest for a bit. Neither of us were all that hungry. And then we ended up just looking for snacks on the way to the movie theater.

Now, going to the movies in Germany is quite the experience. It's quite a large and unfolding movie theater complex with multiple levels and snack shops and restaurants and bars even. And the seats in the theater go all the way to one side, which isn't exactly up to code of there was an emergency. But it was a nice theater and after 30-45 minutes of commercials and ads and previews and more ads (that made us feel like we were almost home), the movie finally started. And it was really good. We both enjoyed it.

By the time the movie was done it was 11 so we just decided to head back to our hotel.  And after a shower and getting ready for bed (made with not one, not two, but three pillows!) I'm ready for some much needed and hard-earned rest. And now we are all caught up here so we can. Goodnight. Trip to Berlin tomorrow and officially halfway through! 

~





















Monday, January 18, 2016

Walking in the steps…

Day: 8
Countries: 3               Cities: 4
Munich, Germany
Walking in the steps…

Sunday 27 December 2015

I can't seem to keep the days of the week straight. It doesn't feel like a Sunday. But it is and now we are officially past the one week mark of our trip. And in our last full day in Munich. Tomorrow we head to Nuremberg.

Today we woke up and got going around 830. Leftover fruit from yesterday for breakfast as we headed to the train station. We figured out which track to take to get to Dachau fairly easily and then made the transfer to bus 726 once there. It's a cute little town. But awful to think of the atrocities that happened there. And not really all that long ago.

The concentration camp memorial was… It's hard to put into words. A quiet that was eerie. A chill that seemed to go beyond what the thermometer said. An attempt to reconcile what had happened there and work toward peace. But an awful reminder.

And although this was like the first such camp and one that lasted all 12 years of the Nazi reign of terror, and it was the basis for subsequent camps, it's still not even the worst of them. But it's still awful.

200,000 prisoners. At least 43,000 died there. Jews, enemies of the state, anti-Nazis,  homesexuals, emigrants....anyone they didn't like.

And the other half of it was a training center for SS troops. So the worst of men, the most terrible of people, went through that place and learned how to be even more terrible, including the guy who would become the main commandant of Auschwitz.

We walked through the gate, saw the barracks, the crematorium. We walked through the museum and could only read some of the info because it was just so awful. But never again. Never again. Please Lord never again. It's hard to want to go back to another place like that. After how awful this one is and knowing it's not the worst. And I feel bad. Because I'm so far removed from the awful reality of it and I can't handle it. But people lived and died through it as their reality. How could this be real? But then again, how can some people deny it happened? And it's happening again in other forms in other parts of the world. but how do we stop it......

Walking in the steps of history…

~











One week down, two to go…

Day: 7
Countries: 3               Cities: 4
Salzburg, Austria à Munich, Germany
One week down, two to go…

Saturday 26 December 2015

A pretty good day filled with a lot of steps and some hearty fare. It’s just before 6 now and we are rounding out a little (but much needed!) break in a Starbucks down one of the main drags of Munich—which is like literally just about the only open cafe we could fine. Nearly everything is closed today and after a little digging we surmise it's because of Boxing Day (or St. Stephan’s Day), which apparently they celebrate here in Germany, in memory of St. Stefan, who was stoned or something just as terrible. Anyway.

We started the day off fairly early (around 720) : woke up in Salzburg, showered, got dressed, packed everything up, and then headed out. Took a cab to the train station, made a quick reservation for the train, stopped at a little grocery store in the station for fresh fruit, and then hopped on the train with plenty of time to spare.  A nice, easy, hour and a half train ride later and we found ourselves in a new city, a new country.  Munich. Munchen.  Don't quite understand fully how that translates but hey we'll go with it.

It's only a couple blocks from the train station to our hotel, then just a short walk to the main area of town. We got checked in and dropped out stuff off and then set out to explore a new place. We started walking and walked a ways before we realized we were walking in the wrong direction. Fortunately, we caught it before too awful long and turned ourselves around and started walking in the right direction this time.

We made it to the main part of town and saw a bunch of stuff (mainly the buildings/churches/streets that were on our trip advising app), but we were rather perplexed to see all the stores and even many of the restaurants closed. Now we know why. Oh well. We were still able to have a full day.

We walked for a while, snapped some pics, and then wound up at HB, one of the oldest breweries in the world. We walked around the huge building first and learned a little about the history. They’ve been brewing for four hundred plus years and it was here in Bavaria that the first and oldest food control purity law was put in place. The place was massive and packed with several floors and corridors of dining tables. We found a table and got a menu but couldn't decipher it. This old German man plopped down at the table next to us and spoke some German to us and ate his meal and drank his beer. We managed to order a beer and a pretzel, but still couldn't figure out the menu. Eventually the waiter brought out an English menu, which really helped.  Definitely an experience: good food, if not the best service; a nice atmosphere; and I suppose you could say good company, too, if you count our old German friend who ate his beef stew and drank from his beer stein and told us “Guten-tag” as we left.

Then we kept walking. And walking and walking. But it was like we had hit a wall. From the past week going going going, and not sleeping well the night before, and that huge lunch—we were just beat. We kept plowing forward though and walked all over the city, seeing the main sights and walking through the English park/garden that was really nice. I want to live close to a park/walking path area like that some day. Anyway. We couldn't find a bench in the sun so we just kept walking and eventually made it back to the area we started in. Then since we’d somehow made it that far on our two feet we figured we might as well keep walking (never ones to shy away from going the extra mile ;)).  So, we walked for what seemed like forever in search of a cafe in which we could rest and quench our thirst. Thankfully we finally found that Starbucks where this typing started.

After sitting there for an hour or so we made a game plan and then started walking again, this time towards our dinner destination. Augustiner Braustuben. The place was really neat and had a cool atmosphere. The host/manager was this nice, little, jolly German man who helped us find a spot to squeeze into and then gave us suckers at the end.

And then we walked back to the hotel and made it back before nine. And then we discovered that Netflix works in Germany, which is pretty darn exciting. So we watched a Christmas movie. And now it's about time for bed.

Another good day to wrap up week one of our trip! And there's still two to go!


~