Disclaimer: I acknowledge that this is not an official Department of State publication, and that the views and information presented are my own and do not represent the Fulbright U.S. Student Program or the Department of State or the Fulbright Foundation in Greece.

Monday, March 14, 2016

Day 18: Ghost trains, middle schoolers, and medieval tales…

Day: 18
Countries: 6               Cities: 9
Dublin, Ireland à Bruges, Belgium
Ghost trains, middle schoolers, and medieval tales…

Day 18
Wednesday 6 January 2016

I know this isn't what was meant by “Ghost Stations” when we saw the info sign in Berlin explaining the trains that would pass from West Berlin through stations in East Berlin in order to get back to West Berlin. But the name seems fitting enough to describe the smattering of people silently milling about, waiting for a train that may never come…

Instead of hearing the whooshing of wind and air from the trains that would normally be barreling through, you hear the soft haunting whistle of wind through the tunnels and the far off sound of the cleaning machine from one of like 5 workers in the whole train portion of the Brussels airport…

And every so often you hold your breath as the computer voice lady comes over the speakers to announce your fate—will your train be on time, delayed, or cancelled altogether? Only she knows...

So we wait, with legs crossed in a pose that at least appears casual, and fingers crossed tighter than ever. We wait for the train that will take us to the city of Bruges that we've heard is just lovely. We hold our breath and wait. 

But we've made it this far. 

And now we are waiting on the actual train that we are 97.8946% sure is going to Bruges. Can't find anyone who works for the train to ask, though I've walked up and down empty aisles. But by reason of deduction and according to the woman sitting on the train when it pulled up, we should shortly be on our way to where we need to be. And then once we are there we can worry about getting to our hostel. And then once we are all settled there we can fully breathe out and get on with enjoying our travels. But hey, one more thing to learn and grow from right? One more thing to make life just a little more interesting.

If variety isn’t the spice of life, how else do you become seasoned travelers???

The doors are closing. It's 9:58. The train is supposed to leave the station at 9:59.........it's 9:59 and right on the dot: the train slowly but surely pulls away. We pray it's pulling away on its way to Bruges. 

Phase 2 then is semi officially underway. Phase 1 was waking up and getting to the airport, working our way through the airport, and then successfully flying from Dublin to Brussels. Well maybe it’s more accurate to term it Phase 1 with a lot of sub parts. Nonetheless we woke up on time, caught the shuttle we had the forbearance to prearrange, made it to the airport, successfully navigated, checked in, and made it through security and boarding; and then slept through a majority of the freezing cold cramped Ryanair flight. Woke up, though, every so often and luckily enough to catch breathtaking views of the sunrise. A nice sunny sunrise surprise. Landing proved a bit painful for my ears but it was a successful landing nevertheless. And then we walked through the airport and down to the train station and with bated breath waited to see if a train was running to Bruges. It was, so the man said. And that's when we took the stairs down to the “ghost station” and this entry began.

Every day is certainly an adventure…

Well we made it. The remainder of our journey was not without its fair share of challenges, but nonetheless we made it. And that's what matters.

The train we were on did end up in Bruges, so that's good. Then we were able to figure out what bus we needed to take from the train station. Now, that was the easy part.

After pushing through a swarm of middle-school-aged kids to buy our tickets, we followed that same swarm and tried to squeeze into the last two square inches of space remaining on the bus. One half of the front doors closed and I stepped on, maneuvering my backpacks into the precious empty space. But Gracie was left standing on the sidewalk when the second door closed and the bus driver started pulling away.  We looked at each other in a state of panic as my voice stammered out an "uhhhhh excuse me please wait we can't be separated..." Fortunately, one of the middle school angels saw our plight and took mercy on us and interceded on our part, translating our dilemma to the bus driver. He stopped and opened the door without breaking his stoic grumpy expression and Gracie squeezed on too and we both breathed a sigh of relief, not a complete one but a sign nonetheless at the major crisis averted.

We rode the bus along the winding bumpy cobblestone streets of the cute (not so) little town of Bruges Belgium. At each stop a few might get off which freed up just enough space for more sardines to crowd on. One of those sardines, though a tad more on the adorable side as far as sardines go, was none too pleased to be squeezed into the tin with us, if her red scrunched up face and incessant mewl was any indication. But at last we made it to the bus stop Google maps told me to get off at. We stepped into the fresh air and took a minute to get our bearings before walking the rest of the two/three block walk to our hostel. We made it and checked in and laid down for a while.

Finally we can relax. Though there's no wifi in the rooms which kinda sucks and there's drilling and all sorts of banging in the hallway. We can lay down and take a breath and start to relax. Because we made it. Always an adventure. 

~

Oh my gosh. Today, and these last two and a half weeks of traveling, must have taken more of a toll on us than we realized (or at least than we were willing to admit). We came back from our afternoon out exploring on a---hmmm, shall we say interesting and enlightening walking tour... And the plan was just to rest a bit and talk to family before checking out/heading back out. Wellllllllll we didn't quite make it. We both came back, laid down, and effectively passed out. I was pretty out of it. I remember waking up once and Gracie saying it was 815. And then I woke up an hour later and she was out talking on the phone in the hall and it was too little too late. But oh well. Maybe tomorrow.

We had a pretty good day otherwise. After we checked in and rested for a bit we regrouped and gathered ourselves to head back out there. It was a bit chilly and rainy at first but then it cleared up mostly, or at least stopped drizzling. We headed to Market Square first in search of food, stopping in at this panini place because we were pretty hungry. It was tasty and fresh, if a bit overpriced. After, we were walking in the square in search of a free walking tour when I saw a post office which reminded me of getting stamps for my postcards in my bag, which made me aware that my bag was not on my back. Thankfully we weren't too far away from the restaurant and I was able to quick turn around and snatch it back up. Need to be extra aware of that.

Well, then we were back in the square and we found the walking tour and had enough time to go grab stamps. I got 20. The guy at the counter was nice. Asked about our travels and why I needed so many. Saved Bruges the best for last. Asked why Americans always wanted to go to Amsterdam, it's just full of Dutch people. Couldn't pay him enough to go there. Silly.

Then we went on the tour, which turned out to be different than we expected. Legends of Bruges. A story-telling-medieval-time-traveling tour through the streets of Bruges. We got to see a bunch of the city and learned a lot of the history and heard some interesting stories. Like the one of the smart-for-his-age-baby-Jesus who wrote a letter while his mom, Mary, held the ink pot in this poor man's cell the night before his execution. Lady City. And the swan punishment for the murder of Peter Longneck. Oh, and apparently there's a relic of Jesus' actual blood in one of their churches here. Anyway.  Not too bad of a tour.

Then we grabbed a dark chocolate covered waffle from Chez Albert, another recommendation from our Xmas eve peeps. It was delicious. Then we found a hidden bar tucked away just off of the square. It was pretty neat. Then we headed out in search of dinner. Walked around some and saw a lot of cute shops to check out tomorrow but which were already closed today.

We made a circle and ended up back on the other side of the square where we ran into a cute little old man who saw us looking at our map and asked if we needed help. We asked him for dinner recommendations and he took us on a little stroll down the street and showed us a couple places. The last place he showed us we had looked up earlier and it looked good and fairly busy so we stopped in there. I had a goat cheese bacon raspberry vinaigrette salad was pretty good. Gracie tried the croquettes which are like fried cheesy mashed potato balls.

After dinner we walked back and got here like 730 or whatever and passed out. And now it's 10:33 and we are watching episodes of Friends. And I am still so so tired. But we made it and we have all day tomorrow and we can sleep in if we want to. But goodnight for now. 

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Thursday, March 10, 2016

Day 17: A little rain, a family legacy, and a bit o’ Irish charm…

Day: 17
Countries: 5               Cities: 8
Dublin, Ireland
A little rain, a family legacy, and a bit o’ Irish charm…

Day 17
Tuesday 5 January 2016

How is it day 17 already??? It doesn't seem possible. I had to scroll back all the way through to double check. But I guess it is. That's kinda sad. This time next week we won't be in a new, exciting place; we will be back at school in Athens. Which I mean, we have to get back to reality at some point. (and writing now, two months later, from Athens and “reality”, I can say with confidence that it really hasn’t been too bad…). 

But, to everything there is a season. The season of travel is coming to a close soon and then it's back to the school season and new seasons of opportunity. Just have to be present and make the most of the last few days of vacation and then find ways to make the most of everyday otherwise. So no more dwelling on or bemoaning the date. We've been very fortunate to have had 16 very full, very wonderful days. And we will have a wonderful last few days and enjoy every second!

~

We needed the rest so we've slept in a bit today. Now it's 9:35 and we will likely start making moves soon. Going out to walk about Dublin and explore. See some sights like old churches and Trinity College, and taste some suggested treats, and the like. Hopefully the weather is like yesterday and will make walking about extra nice. Okay. That's all for now. Going to rest a bit more, let this cold medicine set in (I've been waking up congested and with a sore throat again these past few days and I don't like it. But hopefully it passes soon...).  Okay. More later. 

~

Coming live from a little old pub in Dublin where we have sought refuge after searching desperately for a dry, warm place to hide from the wet and cold rain that has besieged us. Thankful for the warmth but still with wet locks, toes, and clothing; we're more than a little worn down from the weather. Despite the rain we've still managed to have a pretty good day and have seen a bunch.

We started off around 10:30 and trekked over to the Grafton Street area where we were last night. We sought out Kaph, the cafe recommended to us by our Christmas Eve table companions. And after sampling their hot chocolate and muffins in the cozy upstairs atmosphere and greeted with friendly service, we can see why she frequented the place and why they were voted the second best coffee place in Dublin. ‘Twas quite a good first stop on our trek today.

After, we headed out into the drizzle, following a path that would take us past the main sights on our checklist. We started by walking through the quiet, quaint, old, green and stone campus of Trinity College where a great uncle Bride on my grandma’s side went to school to be a doctor. So that was kinda cool. Then we kept walking, crossing the Ha'penny Bridge, pausing just on the other side of the river bank to peruse this cozy, nifty, little book shop called The Winding Stair. ‘Twas just about the neatest little bookshop you ever did see. We wanted to buy everything there. But alas, there isn't nary an empty space left to fit such souvenirs.

After that, we meandered through the cobblestone streets, me almost tripping and busting an ankle once or twice (or rather thrice)... We stepped into the National Leprechaun Museum but decided against the 12 euro tour. Then we kept on a-strolling, deciding that we were ready for some warmth and dryness, if not lunch. We walked to this Sixty6 restaurant, almost passing it up but then deciding we were too cold to keep trudging on and so just went in. And it was good that we did. A delicious 10euro lunch in a cozy and well awarded restaurant with uber friendly staff. A short time later our lunches were out on the table afore us, fresh made, quality ingredients, warm, and oh so delicious. We really have been doing pretty well with our food/dining choices.

Afterwards, we made the short stroll over to the handmade Dingle ice cream place we'd seen yesterday and were not disappointed. We kept walking, bopping in here and there, out of the drizzling rain. We walked by the St Patrick's Cathedral and through the Dublin castle. We stopped in the gift shop there and found our family names in the big book of family names and that was also kinda cool.

And then we walked and walked in desperate search of warmth and dryness and coffee and that's how we found ourselves here. A bit subdued still, but coffee in us, waiting for it to fully kick in so we can power through and enjoy the rest of our time in Dublin. Hopefully soon we will find that energy we are looking for. That we need.

I like Dublin. I just wish the weather would cooperate better. Rain rain go away come again some other day—like when we aren't in Dublin trying to enjoy this beautiful city! ;)

….Well, rainy weather or no, we still had a fantastic last night in Dublin. After we left the pub where we had our coffee, we braved the rain and fought our way, hoods up, heads down, hands stuffed into our pockets, toes soaked, steps quick. Popping in and out of stores we made our way down a part of Grafton Street shopping area we hadn't been to yet. We walked for a while and then found ourselves at an indoor mall. We sat down at the tables of one of the mini center cafes and we went about trying to figure out tomorrow’s train situation. Which turned out to be a bit more of an ordeal than anticipated because apparently there are going to be railway strikes tomorrow and Wednesday. We are hoping our trains won't be affected. One way or another, though, we will make it to Bruges. Right now though we wish we hadn't thought it'd be a good idea to book the earliest flight possible. I mean really, what were we thinking booking a 630 flight?? That means we have to get up before 4 to catch our 330 shuttle to the airport. Bah humbug… So really, I should be sleeping right now instead of writing. But we can sleep again when we are back in Athens (well we can pretend we will sleep again when we are back in Athens...). Oh well.

Anyway. So we spent some time figuring that out and then we went in search of dinner. We stopped at an Italian place located in an old 18th century wine merchant’s cellar—so basically this brick archway which was also also kinda cool. And the food was good. We finished about 7:40 which was perfect timing for heading over to the Stags Head again, making it there just in time for ukulele night—which turned out to be really, really neat and a lot of fun! Definitely a good time and more than worth the trip! If you ever find yourself in Dublin, go there! Good ukelele music and singing of a variety of songs by a bunch of people strumming and humming away... It was so cool! A lot of fun. A neat experience. Another good night.

Can't believe tomorrow is day 18 and our last country. Sad to see it coming to an end. Hang on to these last few precious moments while they last…

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