Friday 14 July 2017
Bastille day!
Viva la France! Is that what they say? Don't know.
Loipon.
Because of the national holiday the Louvre is free today!
Woo!
Got here just after opening at 9. Currently waiting in a line
that wraps around about 20 times. But at least it's moving.
The streets were quiet this morning. Dad says that's because
everyone was here in line. Lol.
Woke up around 7 this am. Snoozed a bit more. Then around 8
started moving. Got ready then set out for our day and here we are!
A little time to spend getting caught up on our busy day
yesterday...
~
We just saw the Mona Lisa!
Eh. Lol.
Slight disappointment but largely due to the chaos and disregard
of the atmosphere around it. Like a mosh out but worse. Pushing shoving mob of
people -- all trying to get a selfie with Mona. Wonder what Leonardo would
think of that. Finally wound my way to the front just to try and just even look
at it. Geesh. Loipon. We saw it.
Lots of other stuff in here. Large naked statues. Weird
looking renaissance babies. Gigantic paintings and frames made from whole
trees.
~
Venus de milo (discovered on the island Milos ;p).
Good grief there were so many people taking pictures and
being stupid trying to pose with the statues in a funny way--touching them and
trying to hold their hands. Ufda. I feel bad for the museum security people who
have to spend their days telling silly tourists not to touch the art.
Walked all over the museum in search of a statue dad saw a
replica in in the gift shop and then we went back to check and realized it
probs isn't here.
Spent maybe 10 seconds too long in the gift shop and ended up
having our exit cut off because of a "situation". Don't know what
happened but we went back to the lobby and sat for a while. We eventually made
our way out we realized the tail end of the parade had just passed by. Ensue
chase. We walked briskly after the trail of horses (and 5 street cleaners)
trying to catch up. We made it far enough to stand and watch the hundreds of
horses and uniformed people riding past.
We ended up overshooting our intended destination (the
Luxembourg gardens), but that's ok because it put us right in the path of a
different destination I really wanted to see: Shakespeare and Co. Bookstore.
Right across from notre dame (deja vu!). We circled the block
trying to find the entrance and then there we were. "Writing home" to
many famous writers living and loving here in Paris in the early 1900s:
Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Gertrude stein, ts Elliot, George Whitman, and a cat.
Very cool place. Enter and see cozy nooks and shelves filled with books floor
to ceiling. Deep quotes painted on the walls and old black and white photos
tacked there too. A cove here with a cushion and a pillow and a cat--books
piled next to it. Typewriter here. Follow the creaking red stairs up to the
second floor hideaway -- remember to look for truth in the hidden places that
are really in plain sight (aka even the stairs speak here): "I wish I
could show you when you are lonely or in darkness the astonishing light of your
own being..." (I'll have to look up the author later --> Hafiz of Shiraz).
Up here you'll find a piano you're free to tickle the keys
(just not with the Amelie theme lol). This is the permanent collection -- from
the original owner ( a woman who hosted these writers loaned books and
published James Joyce's Ulysses).
But you can read. In the reading room dad pulled a random
book from a random shelf and flipped to a random page where his eyes found a
startlingly unrandom quote about finding oneself in an "untidy room
littered with piles of books..." (the Marburg chronicles by Alfred Cooke)
of the millions of words in this book shelf--how is it possible that we
today stumble upon this gem.
Do the owners even know this is here? Did Hemingway??
this is where we are.
The history of these small rooms--oh the stories these shelve
could tell. A small table facing the small window that opened to a quieter view
of notre dame and let in a gentle breeze beckoned the writer in me -- to sit
here where others have sat and see what words come what may.
This place is so cool. Reminded me of the Atlantis bookstore
in Santorini. And like there you couldn't take pictures. Though I wished I
could. But I appreciate the rule and the chance to just take it in and the
absence of that touristy novelty vibe we've found here in so many other
places.
Plus, I found a postcard with a pic of the staircase (the
last one on the rack) so that was nice.
...
Our hips and legs are sore--how many steps more before our
bodies get used to this?
We peeked our heads into the cafe that sits nestled with the
bookstore and have enjoyed the last hour here sipping a coffee and lemonade
with the breeze and noise of traffic and conversation and clinking glasses and
gurgling babies (and tourists who take the same picture of their food with each
of their three cameras before taking a bite. And then take a pretend sip of
their coffee to pose in front of notre dame while her friend snaps this shot
and Quasimodo shakes his head).
We plotted on the map our next steps and now after taking
this pause to write in the spirit of this place... πάμε!
~
Our quest for a hot dog stuffed baguette in the gardens of
Luxembourg has so far proved unsuccessful... but we had a decent regular ol
five euro hot dog ok the lawn surrounded by picknicking and lounging French
people (and a handful of gabbing English speakers).
-
When we are in Rome we will do as the romans do, but right
now we are in Paris, so let's do what the Parisians do. And right now a large
number of them are here near the Eiffel Tower sitting on the ground with food
bought from the carrefore just down the block. I think there will be fireworks
and a symphony has been playing on and off. It's only 7 and won't get dark for
three hours but hey why not!? (Plus our dogs may or may not be barking quite
loudly right now...)
So that's where we are now: sitting. On grass with a view of
the Eiffel Tower between the trees just yonder, the militarie ecole to our
backs, and the symphony of so many languages: instrumental, cars, the
intermittent rumbling ground bass of the subway that I guess must run beneath
us, and probably at least 5-6 languages, including a large group of families
all signing. All people out to enjoy this day of freedom wth their family and
friends. And could you ever have thought this year we'd be here to join them?
Happy accident...
-
Backtrack.
Update on mission hotdog: we found it! We decided to make one
last trek through the garden and looked at two kiosks before finding it at the
bottom of the menu. It did not disappoint. Fresh baguette. A lighter kind of
hot dog that seemed healthier. Some ketchup. Voila!
Then we walked.
And ran right right into the French Statue of Liberty(a lot
smaller than her sister...)
A few blocks later and we wandered into a gelato shop where
they will sculpt your cone into flowers--there flavors, a macaroon, and small
spoons to savor the authenticity and fullness of each flavor.
Eventually we found the train station -- picking up a fresh
baguette just across the street first.
Squared away our eurail pass and had it activated (stamped).
Easier than anticipated.
Then it was time to make our way to le tour Eiffel!
Google maps told us it was 1.7 miles away and we began
walking. .2 miles in I looked up from my phone to turn the corner and
whoa--there she is! Standing tall in all her majesty.
Didn't need google maps anymore. We walked and walked and
apparently objects in the mirror (and in France) are farther than they
appear...
We walked and walked. And walked and walked. And walked and
walked.
And finally found ourselves at the foot of the Eiffel Tower
(well, the foot of the entrance to the large lawn in front of it).
And then we could walk no further. Because it was blocked
off.
That's when and where we saw all these Parisians doing what
they're doing. So we are following suit.
Right here on the lawn. With the Eiffel Tower for
company.
:)
Ωραια...
~
We sat for a while and then made our way inside the fenced
off area with thousands of other people. The line never really got smaller but
eventually all that was left was just to jump in and join ‘em. Guards and
military were searching and patting down everyone. Good.
The lawn was packed already. Nearly half a mile packed with
people. And like no lawn chairs either. Saw only like 4 people with them and
they seemed the odd ones out. We walked as far up as we could to see the Eiffel
Tower with the sun behind. Then we found a place to sit on the concrete and
I've been catching up here.
It's 9:12 and the sun hasn't set yet. Though with its descent
the temperature is cooling down now.
This is Le Concerte de Paris. And it is apparently a very big
deal. They just started showing video promos on the big screens and we've
caught a few sneak peeks of the fun that's in store for us. Should be pretty
amazing! The best fireworks we (and 400,000 other people) have ever seen!
~
Ok. I can't hold it anymore. And better to go now then during
the fireworks. Or to have to hold it till we get back to the hotel which won't
be till midnight. Don't want to be cold and have to pee and be sitting on the
hard ground. If I can take care of one then that's good. So went to find a
bathroom and stumbled upon anrow of 20 with a line that must go the length of a
football field almost. There's a four sided urinal at one end just out in the
open. Encouraged public urination. But also a group of men skirting around the
system and peeing in some bushes across the way. Lol.
~
Also, it's after 10 and it's still light out!
~
The concert de Paris was well worth the couple hour wait. As
it got darker, literally every square foot of that area filled with people all
come to celebrate Bastille day and watch the fireworks. The concert was good.
Orchestra with opera singers. Paris must be gearing up for the 2024 Olympics
because they played a song for it. A children's choir sang. Everyone stood and
sang Frances national anthem with gusto. Especially the Asian man behind me.
And then they held a moment of silence for the 86 people killed exactly a year
ago in the Nice attacks.
There's no real way to Segway.
After, around 11, the fireworks began.
And whoa.
Tres cool.
Lots of colorful and bright explosions set to a variety of
songs playing over the speakers. Because they could mount the fireworks
directly on the tower, they were able to have a lot more versatility and
showmanship than we've ever seen in a fireworks show before. So much action and
sensory all around. Not your typical oh/ah rhythms and boom...
It lasted over half an hour. Great show. Glad we
stayed.
And then, it was over. And time to leave.
For everyone it was time to leave.
Our hotel was over 2 miles away and we walked with a good
majority of the 400,000 watching the spectacle for much of the way.
Lots of walking. Felt like we never got any closer.
We went over the bridge and realized several people had come
in groups to enjoy the festivities from there. several people including those
hawking wares such as buckets full of water and alcohol.
We walked and walked and finally made it back to familiar
territory.
Dad had to pee and couldn't hold it and so we ducked into
Burger King. The security guard looked kinda scary and said something that made
me think we had to buy something to use their facilities. I found the cheapest
thing on the menu which happened to be a child sized Coke Zero for 2 bucks.
Even worse than or McDonald's experience.
Loipon.
A few hundred more meters, a few more blocks and then and
then just down the street and we were back.
It was well past midnight and we were both tired. It took a
bit for me to wind down though. Charge this charge that. Respond to this. Call
spyros. Mom. Megan. Load pics. Post pics. Shower. Tired but not sleepy so
watched an episode of Netflix Friends.
-
And then.
Sleep.
DAY 4
Saturday 15 July 2017
We woke up exhausted. Every part of my body felt every single
step we'd taken in the last two days (although my Fitbit unfortunately wouldn't
connect to tell us precisely how many steps that added up to. Let's just say:
a. Lot. Beaucoup. –oh, and every single minute past midnight that we'd spent up
oooing and ahing and oolalaing for Bastille day… well, today those became the
groaning ohhhs and ahhhs of aching muscles and tired limbs.
My eyes didn't want to open. I turned back into my pillow.
The muscles in my feet and legs screamed when I eventually tried to move them
in the motions that typically equal waking up—except today there was no rising
and shining.
Loipon.
Eventually I managed to wake up and get up and get moving and
start to work out the creaking of my machinery.
We packed—Tetris round 2 for the win!
And then we took a short last break before heading out.
Because we knew we had a long day (2 daysàweek!)
ahead of us...
~
We checked out about 11:30 and fortunately were able to leave
our bags at the hotel to come back for them later before heading to the train.
Thank goodness. I don't think we would have managed trekking all over Paris
with 35-50 pounds strapped to us each...ouf. We barely managed the 2.5 mile
jaunt to the train station later as it is. (Well, we made it fine, but even
just thinking of it all I feel tired...)
Anyway.
Our first stop was breakfast (well, more like lunch) at the Creme
de Paris where we had eaten the first night. Again, it did not disappoint and
we left with our bellies full and satisfied. Dad ordered the caramel apple
waffle and I had a ham egg and cheese (jambon ouef and fromage) pancake thing
with a side salad included plus a caramel latte. Mmm so good but also left my
belly feeling so full and a little heavy. Slight regrets for not eating a sweet
one because I mean how often are you in Paris and can eat authentic sweet and
delicious crepes at any hour of the day, but, d'accord. It is what it is and it
was very tasty still.
~
Continuing…
We started after climbing up towards the Sacre Couer (sacred
heart) church with a view overlooking the city. And when I say climbing I mean climbing. All uphill obviously and then
when we finally caught sight of the church we also saw the many many many stairs still leading visitors up to
RA level.
We may or may not have needed to take a few breaks before
getting to the top.
Lots of people or different ethnicities selling their wares,
laid out on the ground atop a white blanket.
It cost money to go to the top of the dome and we didn't want
to pay to climb more steps so we opted to just walk around the inside of the
church instead. We're not supposed to take pictures but people still did. How
can you prove you were there if you don't document every nook and cranny with
your iPad camera???
~
Next we calculated our path to the Arch de Triomphe and began
walking.
Another hike.
And this time down a rather sketchy, dirty road--which peaked
at Moulin Rouge... a bit uncomfortable for a father daughter trip--need I say
more?
Anyway.
Another mile or so and we were at a park that was right next
to it. So tired of walking.
And then we caught sight of it. And we also noticed by the
cars parked outside that the status of the neighborhood was bumping up a couple
notches.
~
Very busy at the arch with both foot traffic and car
traffic.
Noticed a Tour de France stand and dad bought a shirt. They
are currently biking all over France and will eventually end up in Paris and
finish under the arch.
We walked underneath the road to the arch. Saw it. Sat on one
side of it for a bit. Accidental perfect shot turned photo shoot lol. Then yoga
pics ;)
Then we'd seen enough of it so we made our way back under the
road and continued to walk the busy stretch of road with many other walking
shopping people. Lots of fancy stores and shops. Found a Disney store with
Paris tsum tsums for bub. :) we had to wait in line and have our bags searched
to enter. That's how much we love you bub lol :)
Mission accomplished.
And now for more walking.
And more walking.
And more walking.
Took a short break in the park and dad polished off
yesterday's bag of lays potato chips who's only ingredients are potatoes and
olive oil. Who'd a thunk it? lol.
Some kid saw dad’s Red Cross Bag and told his mom dad was a
doctor. LOL!
Then more walking. Our planned hypotenuse google map route
was interrupted by a blocked off road with a ton of police officers and vans
and a large group of mostly African males who were protesting or demonstrating
or something.
Recalculating.
We tried the other two sides of the triangle and walked right
through the busiest shopping district ever.
So. Many. People.
~
Finally we made it back to familiar territory and stopped to
grab something to drink and then back to the hotel.
We retrieved our luggage and then sat to try and muster up
some strength and energy for the 2.5 mile journey ahead. I think the promise of
a halfway ice cream break was the only saving grace.
It was quite a difficult and heavy and long and aching
journey loaded down like we were. But we made it.
And it really is true that walking is the way to go to see
the city.
Ice cream was good but confusing because within half a block
we saw 4 store fronts for the famed berthillion ice cream. Who knows...
~
At the train station my stress began to mount as I tried to
figure out eurail stuff and what date to enter where in the calendar. And then
we got in this very long line to wait to board the train. Couldn't understand a
thing anyone was saying--on the loud speaker or the conductors...
Finally made it through the line and found our bunk and this
guy I initially thought was working for the train but later realized how silly
that though was because of the red paint on his face and general dishevelment
started talking to us in French and looked at our ticket and told us to keep
walking. We did and then asked a real conductor and made our way back to the
spot where some confusion ensued because the other people there weren't in
their correct spots and moved everyone around into our ours. Young guys on the
top bunk. Young girls in the bottom. Dad and I in the middle.
I felt uncomfortable and flustered by the whole situation.
And then there was the literal discomfort of the bunk bed and the open window
and the rattling train. Couldn't really talk to dad until the morning. Couldn't
really do much of anything except think and try to calm down and try to sleep
or at least rest until morning.
I guess at least we were laying down and laying down even in
uncomfortable places is almost always good when you are so tired.
A long night ensued. I almost dropped off to sleep at one
point and then was awoken by the activity in the hallway. After that maybe I
dozed but if I slept it was the train I dreamed of. Nightmares more likely.
Conjured up by my discomfort with the whole situation and nerves. Made
nightmare noises at one point and dad had to reach across to shake me because I
must have dreamt there was a man in our car who touched my leg. I could feel
where he touched.
Eventually morning came and I could look at the lightening
scenery passing by outside the window. Or I guess we were passing it by. The
others got off before Nice which was nice because then we had some room to get
things together before disembarking.
~
And that was our very very very long Saturday.
…
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